Ingredient Wise: Dr. Brandt Skincare Magnetight Age Definer

Hello folks! I think the ingredient wise category on my blog is neglected a bit too much by yours truly so I’ve decided to give it some love today 🙂 In this series on the blog, we take a look at some hyped up beauty products and see if the ingredient list actually supports the claims they make in their marketing material. I have done a few of these over the past 2 years so if you would like to read up on those, click on the category titled Ingredient Wise on the left 🙂

A few months back everyone was talking about the coolest new face mask in town…a magnetic mask which sounded like a lot of fun to try out to be honest. Today I thought I would take a closer look at this hyped up mask from Dr. Brandt Skincare.

(Image Source: Sephora website )

Claims (From the Sephora website)

What it is:
An antiaging, iron-infused mask and magnet removal tool that work together to refine, purify, and brighten the look of skin.

Solutions for:
– Fine lines and wrinkles
– Pores
– Dullness and uneven skin tone
The MAGNETIGHT Age-Defier™ is a powerful mask that combats signs of aging and dramatically transforms the look of skin. Harnessing the power of attraction, the magnetic properties of the iron-based formula visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles and lift away impurities as they calm and illuminte dull, stressed skin. The face appears magnetically youthful, bright, and energized.

Ingredient List ( From the Sephora website)

Iron Powder, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Nylon-12, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Silica, Tribehenin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 40, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Tourmaline, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Isohexadecane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol

Do the claims work?

The very first ingredient in this face mask is iron powder which is what makes this the fun face mask to try. The magnet that comes along with the tub is used to ‘pull’ the mask from your face once you have let it sit on the skin for the stipulated amount of time. Now, besides the obvious fun factor that iron brings to this mask, does it really do anything for the skin?

The claims state that magnetic properties of this face mask can reduce fine lines and wrinkles…I am not so sure about that.  What gives this mask its magnetic properties is the iron but studies have shown that after a woman reaches menopause iron starts to accumulate in her skin. This accumulation leads to skin ageing and photo ageing. Women who are in their pre menopause years lose Iron from their bodies through menstruation and faster skin cell turnover since they are younger. Once you hit menopause ( when you start taking anti ageing skincare more seriously ) the accumulation of Iron in the body increases and reduces the antioxidative capacity of the skin. Oxidative damage in turn causes wrinkles. So in a way the number one ingredient in this anti ageing face mask is not something you should be putting on your face to combat ageing!! I wouldn’t go so far as to say that this mask does the reverse of what it claims, after all that iron sits on your skin for maybe 10 minutes. All the Iron does in this face mask in my opinion is the theatrics!! 😀

So if you have used this mask and found that it does reduce your fine lines and wrinkles, you can thank the next 2 ingredients listed in this mask. Both dimethicone and polysilicone -11 give a smooth appearance to the skin by filling in fine lines and pores. The rest of the ingredients consist of more silicones and also skin conditioning agents which make this a good moisturizing mask. So where is the anti ageing stuff in this mask? I’m not sure!

Tourmaline is a semi precious stone used in some cosmetic preparations. What does it do exactly? I am not sure! I was not able to find any independent studies confirming what cosmetic companies say about this ingredient. It is generally considered to impart a glow to the skin and also help stimulate the production of collagen but there is no evidence for any of those claims.

So overall this might work as a nice moisturizing mask which you can then take off with a magnet as a fun bonus! Once the novelty of this wears off I doubt I’ll be happy about the 75$ I would have spent on this face mask.

Have you tried this mask? What are your thoughts?

References 

  1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23752032
  2. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4091310/
  3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23866012/
  4. http://www.paulaschoice.com.au/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/tourmaline
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Ingredient Wise: Peter Thomas Roth 24K Gold Mask Pure Luxury Lift and Firm

Hello everyone! I think it has been a year since I last posted something under the Ingredient Wise category on my blog. I got so caught up in regular product reviews, that this section kind of disappeared off my radar for a bit. I will try to post more of these in the coming months! 🙂

Now in case your wondering what this category is all about here is a quick description: We take a hyped up product, review the claims and see if the ingredients in it actually support the claims and promises. Today, I am going to dissect the ingredient list of the Peter Thomas Roth 24K Gold Mask which comes at a price tag of 80 US $. This mask is quite popular among beauty enthusiasts and generally I feel everyone is after firming products with gold particles in it these days! 80$ is a hefty price tag for a face mask (and I thought the Glam glow face mask price tags were atrocious)

(Image Source: Sephora website)

Claims ( From Sephora’s website)

This lavish, pampering treatment helps to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a youthful-looking complexion. Caffeine helps tighten and firm the look of skin while peridot—an exquisite gemstone rich in magnesium—re-energizes and helps reduce the aging effects of stress. The 24K gold imparts an opulent, radiant glow and locks in moisture for ultra-hydrated skin.

Ingredients (From Sephora’s website)

-24K Gold: Imparts an opulent, radiant glow; locks in moisture and keeps skin firm.
-Colloidal Gold: Helps lift, firm, and restore lost elasticity.
-Peridot: An ancient green gemstone rich in magnesium to help re-energize and minimize the aging effects of stress.

Glycerin, Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caffeine, Olivine Extract, Colloidal Gold, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Gold (Ci 77480), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).

Do the claims work?

Yup I agree with them on the pampering part …after all putting on a face mask with 24K gold particles is luxe pampering! I did search quite a bit on the internet for some independent research on if gold helps lock in moisture when applied on the skin, and unfortunately found none. If you look at the ingredient list, you will see that the glycerin is the very first ingredient. Glycerin has been used for decades as a very good moisturizing ingredient and can be found in cheaper face masks and moisturizers as well. The mask also contains high amounts of Sodium Hyaluronate which is an excellent humectant. Humectants attract water and hence when applied on the skin, they keep the skin moist and supple with no greasiness. This mask will definitely be moisturizing just that it will be because of these 2 ingredients instead of the gold particles.

Caffeine at one point was a hot ingredient for cosmetic products probably because of its anti inflammatory properties. However, there is not much scientific evidence to prove that it can help with anti ageing or skin tightening. Paula’s Choice has a good write up on caffeine in skincare (HERE) complete with scientific references.

The ingredient in this face mask that intrigues me the most is the peridot gemstone! In the ingredient list it is listed as Olivine Extract which is essentially a bio available (can be absorbed by the body) magnesium complex sourced from Peridot. I could not find any independent scientific data on olivine extract- it is a cosmetic ingredient marketed by a company called Gattefosse. So again, no idea if this really helps with minimizing ageing from stress :/

Now lets take a look at the ingredient that is the main focus of this face mask..the gold! Now I could not find any independent scientific study that shows gold can help in firming the skin and restore lost elasticity. However, there are a lot of people who claim to see the benefits so the verdict is still out there on if gold really works in  firming the skin.Do let me know if you have come across any independent studies which support these claims.

The radiant skin promised by the mask is probably due to the temporary and brief deposit of the gold particles on skin which reflect light. Additionally the mica present in the mask might also contribute to this illusion.

Overall, I am not convinced about the benefits of this mask. I do believe that it will be a nice moisturizing mask but not sure if it can provide actual firming and anti ageing benefits.

Have you tried this mask? Has it worked for you? Let me know in the comments!

Until next time…ciao!!

Ingredient Wise: The Charlotte Tilbury Magic cream ‘Treat and Transform Moisturizer’

Hello!!

If you are new to the the ingredient wise series, here is what it is in a nutshell: We take a look at a hyped up product and see if the claims they make are actually supported by the ingredients in them 🙂 Today we are going to review the ingredients found in the popular? infamous? (I dunno..most people either love it or hate it) Charlotte Tilbury Magic cream. This cream retails for 100USD at Nordstrom for 1.7 oz.

(Image Source: Nordstrom website)

The Claims (from the Nordstrom website)

Charlotte Tilbury’s secret is out. Her Magic Cream is a secret mix of patented anti-aging ingredients combined with a hyaluronic booster and floral extracts to lift and transform tired skin in an instant. A breakthrough, multi-tasking ingredient, the BioNymph Peptide Complex, fights the aging process on all fronts, stimulating collagen production and cell energy while fighting free radicals to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and smooth skin. Sodium hyaluronate floods skin with moisture while replumping and extracts of wild pansy promote the renewal of hyaluronic acid in the skin’s surface. Rose hip oil, camellia oil and vitamin E transform a grey complexion into a hydrated one while nourishing vitamin A helps improve skin firmness and smoothness and energetic vitamin C promotes collagen activity for more youthful skin.

The Ingredients ( from the Charlotte Tilbury website)

Water (Aqua), Homosalate , Glyceryl Stearate SE, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Steareth-21, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Disodium Edta, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Michelia Alba Leaf Oil, Sodium Lactate, Coco-Glucoside, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, plus a little bit of top secret magic…

So do these claims work?

Okay where do I start.. I am definitely not the first and last person to say that the ingredient list does not in the slightest justify the 100$ price tag 😐

As I have mentioned in many posts before, the order of the of the list of ingredients is an indication of  its concentration in the product. The higher it appears in the list the higher the concentration of that ingredient in the product.

1. The anti ageing claims

The BioNymph Peptide Complex that they talk about is Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 which is commonly sold under the commercial name Matrixyl 3000. Matrixyl 3000 is a formula developed by the company Sederma and is used in many other anti ageing creams in the market as well..so its not unique to this one product !  In fact you can buy Matrixyl 3000 on amazon and mix it in with your regular moisturizer. I will do another post sometime explaining the role of peptides in anti ageing 😉 So basically they have slapped a fancy sounding name on a commercially available complex and made it look like an exclusive ingredient.

Another thing to note; this complex is listed almost towards the end of the ingredient list so I am not sure if there is enough of this stuff for it to promote collagen production. (Heck there is more preservative (Phenoxyethanol) in this cream than this complex)

If you take a look at the ingredient list you will see  Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone are present in high concentrations in this cream. These guys are great at filling in fine lines and wrinkles and temporarily smoothening the skin…and they are found in creams you can buy in the drugstore. So again, nothing magical here !

2. Sodium Hyaluronate

It is present in this cream, but buried somewhere in the bottom of the ingredient list. The moisturizing effect from this cream is most probably solely from the glycerin and glycerin stearate found at the top of the ingredient list. I am sure your aware that Glycerin is an inexpensive ingredient which you can find even in a 5$ face cream.

They also talk about extracts of wild pansy promoting the renewal of hyaluronic acid in the skin’s surface and unfortunately I could not find any research to back this up. Do let me know in the comments if you find any research paper talking about this. All I could find is that it has emollient and soothing properties .

3. Plant extracts, oils and vitamin C

Vitamin C figures almost at the bottom of the ingredient list so lets not even talk about it. (Plus this cream is in a jar and antioxidants in jar packaging and clear glass is a no no)

Some of these plant extracts are potential irritants for those with sensitive skin and as for the oils, I don’t see anything special..I have seen so many other cost effective creams which have similar oils and better ingredients.

 

Overall, I am not impressed! I might just stick to her makeup products. When I splurge on skincare the ingredients are very important to me. I don’t want to pay top dollar for a basic cream with sunscreen just because of the brand.

Do let me know your thoughts on this cream !

Until next time…ciao!!

Ingredient Wise: The Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders

Hi everyone!

This is another installment to the series called Ingredient Wise, that I started on my blog a while back. Here we take a look at the ingredients in a product and see if the marketing claims are backed up by the stuff listed in the ingredient list. The Hourglass Ambient Lighting powders catch my fancy every time I step into Sephora..there is something about its texture and claims that attracts me to it :). I usually like to splurge on eyeshadows and blushes ( I can never have enough of them!) but something stops me from spending 45$ on what is essentially a finishing powder! So, I decided I should take a look at the ingredients of this product and see for myself why this product is pretty unique in the market at this point of time.

Lighting Powder

(image source: Hourglass website)

The Claims (from www.hourglasscosmetics.com)

A wardrobe of six universal finishing powders that recreate the most exquisitely flattering light—from ethereal moonlight to luminous candlelight. Each powder captures, diffuses and softens surrounding light with groundbreaking photoluminescent technology. Choose one or more and step into your perfect light.

• Powders capture, diffuse and soften the way light is reflected on skin, brighten the appearance, and conceal skin imperfections, pores and wrinkles.

•Infused with technologically advanced soft-focus particles that help make skin appear younger, even-toned and radiant

• Unlike traditional powders that use opaque pigments, Ambient utilizes “photoluminescent technology” – micron-size spherical particles that refract light and create transparent coverage

• Universal powders make them suitable for every skin tone, while each can be worn for day and night

• Free of parabens, talc, fragrance, nano-particles and gluten

 The Ingredients

Mica, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Boron Nitride, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Olymethylsilsesquioxane, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sorbic Acid, Olyacrylamide, Benzoic Acid, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Potassium Sorbate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Laureth-7, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trimethylsiloxysilicate. May Contain : Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Ci 77163 (Bismuth Oxychloride),Ci 77491 (Iron Oxide),Ci 77492 (Iron Oxide), Ci 77499 (Iron Oxide),Ci 75470 (Carmine).

 So do the claims work?

If you cut through all the eloquent talk about these powders their main function is to manipulate light falling on the skin to give a soft focus that blurs out skin imperfections. If you look at the ingredient list there are quite a few ingredients that play with light… lets take a look at each of them individually!

 1. Mica: We all know what Mica does in cosmetics 🙂 Its responsible for the sheen or sparkle in makeup products. Finely milled mica is one of the main ingredients in mineral makeup and here too its the top ingredient listed.

2.Synthetic Fluorphlogopite: If you check your cosmetic ingredient lists you will see that this is a common ingredient in many metallic or pearlescent  eyeshadows and blushes…so what is this exactly? Its basically synthetic mica (has similar light reflecting properties) and is a translucent powder that can be coated with pigments.

3.Boron Nitride: It is used as a talc substitute in many cosmetic formulations. It is responsible for the silky smooth texture these powders have. Additionally, it has fantastic light reflecting properties and depending on the particle size used it can blur out fine lines and give the skin a natural sheen.

4. Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer along with Silica: This is also an ingredient that can imaprt a silky smooth consistency to the product. It can also scatter light to diminish the look of fine lines on the skin, while letting enough light through so the look of the skin is natural.

5. Polymethyl Methacrylate: It has light reflective properties especially in the UV region of the spectrum. It also has the same glide on  and fine line filling properties as silicones.

6. Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Olymethylsilsesquioxane:  Now isn’t that name a mouthful! From technical literature available from one of the companies that supplies this ingredient, I think this is one of the star ingredients here! These particles manipulate light by converting invisible UV light to blue light (photoluminescence) and selectively scattering favorable blue and green light. The particles settle in wrinkle and fine lines and the scattered blue and green light emanates  a blue glow that decreases the appearance of wrinkles and discoloration.

As you can see, the soft focus effect that these ambient lighting powders claim to provide is due to a complex inter play between these 6 ingredients which manipulate light in different ways! Overall, looking at the list of ingredients it is possible to that blurred candle light like soft effect on the skin. I think the method of application and also how much you apply can affect the outcome of the final look drastically. For example some of the ingredients like Boron Nitride if used in excess can come off looking oily and greasy on the skin instead of a dewy finish.

Ingredient Wise : The Bare Minerals Bare Skin Pure Brightening Serum Foundation

Hello everyone!

So I did start this series called Ingredient wise on my blog a while back and so far I put out only 1 post under that category..oops! So today I thought I will review the ingredients and the claims made by a product that has created quite the buzz recently. I have not tried anything from Bare minerals since I am not sure if my skin will like mineral makeup but their latest stuff the bare skin serum foundation has definitely caught my interest and I might try it out sometime..

 

(Picture source: www.bareescentuals.com)

The Claims (from the www.bareescentuals.com website)

Clinically proven tone-correcting mineral foundation and brightening serum in one. Created with exceptional purity in mind, this ultra-thin, skin-perfecting fluid provides seamless adjustable coverage, a natural finish and the look and feel of beautiful skin while delivering a noticeably brighter, more youthful appearance. Made with the bare minimum ingredients and formulated without oil, silicone, parabens or fragrance. It’s like nothing you’ve ever felt before.

Available in 20 skin-perfecting shades.

The Ingredients

Titanium dioxide 11.0%, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coconut alkanes, silica, stearalkonium, hectorite, lecithin, glycerin, maltodextrin, coco-caprylate/caprate, jojoba esters, propylene carbonate, tocopheryl acetate, soil minerals/syringa vulgaris (lilac) leaf cell culture extract, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, mica, iron oxides

Do all these claims work?

  1.  The minimalism in the Ingredient List : As you can see in the list above , the number of ingredients listed is in fact far less than what you will find is the case with your average foundation. To me thats great news! Hey if the foundation can work with lesser ingredients that is awesome news for your skin rite?
  2. A Serum foundation providing youthful appearance? : The presence of caprylic/capric triglyceride, coconut alkanes and coco-caprylate/caprate will give it that serum feel. This mixture of coconut alkanes and coco-caprylate/caprate is derived from plant oils (coconut to be precise ) and its this combination that is responsible for the silky and light weight feel on the skin. But does the foundation have the usual facial serum like ingredients ? Well if you take a look at the ingredients you will see, lilac leaf cell extract, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (more stable form of the anti oxidant vitamin C) , Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E derivative) and sodium hyaluronate (anti ageing ingredient). However, their concentrations are very small in the final product since they are listed way towards the end of the ingredient list so I would not rely on a foundation for skin care benefits. However, as a cosmetic item , the foundation may still be able to temporarily give you youthful looking skin 🙂
  3.  Formulated without oil, silicone, parabens or fragrance: I think its really cool that this foundation does not contain silicone and parabens. However I feel that the no oil claim is not entirely true. Coconut alkenes and coco-caprylate/caprate are derived from plant oils and is a vegetable oil based solvent. In fact I think this is also the star of the show since it is a skin conditioning agent which does not have a greasy after feel.
  4. Tone correcting and brightening: I don’t personally see any ingredients on the list that can help with tone correcting. Tone correction always happens when you apply any decent foundation in my opinion since the the whole idea of putting liquid pigment on your face in your skin tone is to hide redness and other skin tone imperfections so I don’t buy the whole clinically proven thingy! The same goes with brightening..the amount of vitamin C in the product is minimal so I doubt its going to brighten your skin. The huge amounts of titanium dioxide might help with brightening since its capable of reflecting and absorbing light.
  5. SPF OF 20 : The very first ingredient listed in the foundation is titanium dioxide so yup your getting some sun protection there. However, as always a full day out in the sun calls for a full on sunscreen 🙂

Overall, I might still try this out at some point since it does look nice on people I know who have purchased this 🙂 . I also like the short and sweet ingredient list and I think what sets this apart from other foundations is the use of coconut alkenes and coco-caprylate/caprate which can mimic the silicone smooth feel on the skin. I feel the rest of the stuff like lilac stem cells are not going to really make a difference to your actual skin…after all this is a makeup product and not a skin care one!

Have you guys tried this out? what do you think of it? Until next time ciao folks!!!

 

 

Ingredient Wise : The L’oreal Youth Code Texture Perfector Pore Vanisher

Hey everyone!

As you may know by now I do post some beauty related science posts once a week. I thought I’d start a series called Ingredient wise where I look at the claims of some of the latest beauty products in the market and see how many of their claims are supported by science and the ingredients in them and how much is just pure marketing at work 🙂  The Ingredient wise series is a reflection of the thought process and research I do before I go ahead and buy a new skin care product. I am sure many of you like to think hard about the claims made by companies before you go out and splurge on their products, so I hope you enjoy this series!

I thought the L’oreal youth code texture perfector pore vanisher is an ideal candidate to inaugurate this series of posts on my blog since it does claim to do a lot!

 

Source : L'oreal USA website

Source : L’oreal USA website

The claims (from L’oreal USA website)

What is Pore Vanisher™?
Pore Vanisher™ is a fresh, airy cream that instantly minimizes the look of pores and shrinks actual pore size in 1 month.

How does it work?
Pore Vanisher™ works on three dimensions to shrink pores: depth*(with product on ), number and size. Instantly pores appear virtually vanished and skin feels hydrated. Perlite absorbs excess oil for an all-day, shine free, smooth finish. In one day LHA micro-exfoliates to visibly smooth skin’s surface. In one month pores begin to snap back into shape as our highest concentration of Perline-P strengthens and tightens pore walls to shrink actual pore size.

The ingredients

DIMETHICONE • AQUA/ WATER • GLYCERIN • DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER • METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER • ISONONYL ISONONANOATE • ALCOHOL DENAT. • VINYL DIMETHICONE/ METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER • BUTYLENE GLYCOL • LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE • BORON NITRIDE • SILICA SILYLATE • PHENOXYETHANOL • PEG/PPG-18/ 18 DIMETHICONE • PERLITE • MAGNESIUM SULFATE • CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID • CAPRYLYL GLYCOL • MENTHYL LACTATE • LENS ESCULENTA SEED EXTRACT/LENTIL SEED EXTRACT • BISABOLOL • PARFUM/ FRAGRANCE • DEXTRIN • DIMETHICONOL • CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499/IRON OXIDES • CI 77891/ TITANIUM DIOXIDE • SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE • EPERUA FALCATA BARK EXTRACT • FARNESOL • LIMONENE • DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE • ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE • CITRONELLOL • ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE

Do all these claims work?

  1.  Instantly minimizing the look of pores : Yes, it is going to be able to achieve this because if you take a look at the ingredient list you’ll see that this product is loaded with silicone based polymers which can temporarily fill in the pores and give a smooth silky feel to the skin. The very first ingredient is dimethicone! and it seems to be the top ingredient, being listed before water! In addition to dimethicone you can see that the product is laden with cross polymers of silicones of all kinds..so ingredient wise this claim will work for sure!
  2. Leaves skin feeling hydrated : The 3rd ingredient in this product is glycerin so yes there is an ingredient to back up this claim. How it works depends on how dry your skin is to begin with. Glycerin is a humectant ( it draws mositure to the skin from the surrounding environment) and so it can work well to hydrate moderately dry skin. Additionally, Isononyl isononanoate is also present which is an emollient so the product does look promising in the hydration department.
  3. Shrinks pores in depth, number and size : Before we talk about this claim we need to take a look at what exactly are pores? Pores are hair follicles, outlets for the sebaceous glands and sweat glands. Our body is covered with millions of pores but the ones which annoy us are the visible clogged ones which are concentrated near the nose and cheeks since that is where a lot of sebaceous glands are present. Unfortunately, no product can reduce the number of pores since its hereditary. So that claim of reducing the number of pores is not true at all. Now lets talk size ..pores get enlarged due to a number of factors..clogging of pores, age and again some people have large pores due to genetics. Shrinking of pores can be achieved but again its temporary in nature. I f you take a look at the ingredient list you’ll see alcohol denat listed. This is essentially denatured ethyl alcohol which causes a tingling sensation to your skin (thereby making you feel like the product is working) and causes a certain amount of irritation of the skin. When skin is irritated it swells slightly and this in turn makes the surrounding pores look closed. Regarding depth of pores..I am not sure what they really mean by depth of pores since if your pores are getting clogged they enlarge in size not depth. But in case you really do have deep pores or any imperfections, the silicones in the formula will take care of it temporarily.
  4. Perlite absorbs excess oil for an all-day, shine free, smooth finish : Perlite is used as a filler and absorbent in cosmetic products. Here in addition to perlite, Boron nitride and silica silylate also help with the mattifying and oil control aspects.
  5. In one day LHA micro-exfoliates to visibly smooth skin’s surface : First off what exactly is LHA? D’ont you hate it when companies throw 3 or 4 letter acronyms at you!? 🙂 LHA stands for Lipohydroxy acid. The LHA in this formula is capryloyl salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is known to have bacteriostatic, fungicidal, and keratolytic actions. It is a lipophilic (oil loving) molecule that penetrates the epidermis easily and can help soften or loosen corneocytes or dead skin cells (keratolytic activity), this in turn helps with removing dead cells which have accumulated in the pores of the skin and gives the skin a smooth appearance. By attaching a fatty acid molecule to the salicylic acid , the molecule becomes even more lipophilic in nature thereby enabling better penetration into the epidermis. It also has better keratolytic activity as explained in this study. The article is based on a conference presentation so it isn’t published study in the traditional sense.
  6. In one month pores begin to snap back into shape as our highest concentration of Perline-P strengthens and tightens pore walls to shrink actual pore size : Now I have no idea what is Perline- P . It appears to be a trademarked name for a plant based complex used by L’oreal as per their website. Perline -P might be Lens esculenta (lentil) seed extract along with something else since there is a study showing the effect of Lens esculenta (lentil) seed extract on tightening pore walls and minimizing pores done by researchers at a french cosmetic ingredient company called Silab. Now since its not an independent study by someone outside the cosmetic industry I do advise you to take it with a grain of salt 😛 The Silab study does conclude that there is a visble reduction in pore size after 28 days , which is similar to L’oreal’s claims.

Overall, I might just pick up this product sometime since I am looking for a hydrating primer which is what I expect this product to be and also I am quite curious about it in general :). Regarding its other promises of strengthening pore walls and shrinking their size I am not so sure. Do tell me your experiences with this product if you’ve already purchased it 🙂

If  like me sitting you’ve been sitting on the fence trying to decide whether to take the plunge or not I hope this post helps you decide!

Additional References

  1. The New Science of Perfect Skin: Understanding Skin Care Myths and Miracles. Daniel Yarosh, PH.D.
  2. http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/summary/summary.cgi?cid=338